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filmaga. 

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papiar  aat  imprimte  sont  fiimte  an  commanqant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darniAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  smprainta 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  la  sacond 
P'ft;  s*'on  la  caa.  Tous  las  autraa  exampiairas 
originaux  sont  fiimte  an  commandant  par  la 
pramiAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  smprainta 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'illustration  at  en  tarminant  par 
la  darniAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  taila 
amprajnta. 

Un  daa  symbolaa  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
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at  da  haut  en  baa,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'Imagas  n^assaire.  Las  diagrammes  suivants 
illuatrant  la  m^thoda. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

^       E^ 


/v4> 


38/65/ 


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•1^ 


<»>''.  ■,  ., 


©ome  ®tpay  «Note8 


OF  AN 


Kastern  Hourney 


[Printed  for  Private  Circulation  Only.] 


1897 

HAM  BUN  PRINTING  CO. 
Chicaoo. 


I.*    t 


..a 


^^^ijij^ij^ 


I 


Some  Stray  Notes  of  an  Eastern  Journey. 


P.v  C.   A.  W. 
BrCHAKKST,   Ror.MAMV,   .\iii;ust    i^tli,   1S97. 

Our  fxjxjrietice  ut  IIk-  weather  thus  far  has  fully  justified  the 
experiment  of  inakiuK  the  Mediterranean  trip  durinjj  midsiniuner.  In 
spiti'  of  the  doleful  warnings  of  those  who  had  been  there  (in  the  win- 
ter nineteen  of  us  left  Rome  (m  the  morning;  of  July  2.vl  and  had  a 
Lost  delightful  and  (wl  journey  of  sixteen  hours  across  country  to 
^rindisi,  taking  the  Austrian  Lloyds  steamer  llabsburg  thence  about 
[ini(lnij;iit.  The  Chicagoans  of  the  i>arty  were  Dr.  Nicholas  Senn. 
Dr.  I).  K.  Hrovver,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Casey  Wood,  Miss  Isabel  Mclsaac, 
Mr.  Daniel    Hrower.  Mr.  William  Senti,  Dr.  Iv  vS.  Talbot,  Miss  Talbot 

Riid  Dr.  Lucy  Waite. 

The  southeastern  part  of  Italy  is  not  as  well  known  to  the  tourist 
IS  it  ouKht   to  be;  chielly  because   he  is  likely   to    ima<;ine,  after    an 
aniuamtance  wiih  the  centra!  and  northern  portions  only,  that  a  pros- 
perous Italian  agricultural  community  does  not  exist.     After  the  rail- 
pv    crosses    the    Apiienines    north   of    Naples,    it    enters    and    runs 
[hrouKdi  a  plain  about  u  o  miles  long  by  10  miles  wide  that  might  well 
be  called  "  a  land  llowing  with  milk  and  honey. ""     On  the  table  lands 
L    grown  wheat,  corn   and    ..its   in   abundance,  while  on   the  lower 
[evels  almost  every  acre  is  i.lanted  with  olives,  figs,  dates  and   grapes. 
Sidctnicked  along  the  railroad  we  s,iw  numerous  tanks— ([uite  sinular 
|o  lho.se  used  by  the  Standard  Oil  Com])anv     for  the  carriage  of  wine. 
Hie  houses  even  of  the  peasantry  are  more  imposing,  cleaner  and  bet- 
tx  kept  than  those  found  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  while  the  luii- 
[ersal    employment    of  whitewash    for    fences,    barns,    grareries    and 
actories    is    very   agreeable    to    the  eye     these    buildings  being   sur 
funded  bv  the  varied  tints   of  green  orchard  and  field.      There  is  also 
iiK.llHT  reason  whv   this  part  of  Italy  is  a  particularly  pleasant  one  to 
[ravel  through  -  the  peopU-  appear  to  be  well  fed  and  comfortably  clad. 
^id   Iher.-  is'almo.st    an  entile  absence  of  that    bc-^^arx  \s\\\<:\\  in  other 
baits  of  Italy  annoys  and  distresses  the  visitor.   Moreover,  the  dried- 
|p  and  barren  looking  soil  which  one  commonly  encounters  in  south- 
rn  >ountries  during  August   is   altogether    lacking  in  this  beautitul 
lail  oi  the  world. 


We  would  otTer  a  word  in   favor   of  the    raihoad    froii 

Hrindisi  and  of  advice  to  thos-e  who  may  think  of  takin?  tl 

in  summer.     The  roadbed  is  made  of  crushed    lava   and  c 

and    is   absolutely    devoid    of  dust.      We   encountered    a   ( 

almost   all   the  way   to  Caserta,  and  when  we  began  at  th 

cross  the   mountaitis  a  heavy  rain  storm    still  further  cool 

Of  course  the  subseciuent  journey  across  the  mountains  then 

along  the  shores  of  the  Adriatic  were,  for   obvious   rea.son 

pleasant.     Do   not    make   any    special    preparations   for  tli 

except  that  of  laying  in  a  stock  of  sweetened  lemon  juice 

I-Vesh.  cooled   water   is  sold  at  most  tailway  stations,  an^ 

cents  a  grateful  drink  may  be  had    almost  everywhere.     S 

ney,  even  in  second  class  carriages,  can  be  made  with  few 

niences  than  would  be  enccmntered  in  traveling  in  a  PuUt 

same  time  of  year,  from  Chicago  to  ButTalo. 

A  .second   agreeable  disappointment   was  reserved   fo 

character  of  the  boats  that  ply  between  the  south  Italian  y 

disi  and  Tatras  i.oneof  the  seaports  for  Alliens;    The  best  ot 

Austrian  Lloyds',  and  we  were  assured  that  our  vessel,  th 

was  an  average    specimen.     It  was  everything   that  could 

with  large,  roomy  cabins  containing  two  or  more    beds— i 

in  each.     The  ventilation  of  the.se   was    unusually  gooil, 

portholes   were    open   alnust    all    the    lime    we    could    nr 

iMually,    the    meals  on    board  were    excellent.       Before    i 

island  of  Corfu  we  came  upon  the  first  evidence  of  the  wai 

sailed    somewhat    out    of  its    regular    course    to   pick    up 

wretched  peasants  and  artisans    from  the  Turkish  seapo 

the  capital   of  l-pirns.     The  Turks  established  a  mililarv 

and   had  immense  stores  of  flour  for  the  use  of  the  army  . 

the  northwest  borders  of  Greece.     The    Greek    tleet  ma<i 

of  it,  however,  and  we  had  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing 

modern  artillery  can   make  in  a  small   town.     We  saw  w 

all    .states   of    demolition.      Some  of   them  were  merely 

and  tlicre  with    holes  and  partially  burned  while  others 

torn  to  pieces.     One  large  building  had  two  walls  and  the 

tion  with  parts  of  the  llooring  and   staircases  still  in  pU 

trast  with  all  this  a  few  companies  of  Turkish  soldiers 

end  of  a  ruined  granary,  over  which  the   red  cre.scent  w 

which  the  regimental  band  discoursed  what  probably  pas 

for  sweet  music.      Corfu  is  .lelightful  at  all    seasons  ot  t 

one  may  easily   understand    why   the    Empress  of  Aust 


avor  of  the  railtoad  fn)m  R  'inc  ;, 
ho  may  tliink  ot  taking;  the  jnurmv 
de  of  crushed  lava  and  other  stoiif 
ist.  We  encountered  a  cool  lirn.. 
and  when  we  bcRan  at  this  iioint  ti  i 
n  storm  still  further  cooled  the  ;iir, 
,'  across  the  mountains  themselves  and 

were,  for   obvious   reasons,  cool  and 
;pi;cial    preparations   for  this  journey  | 
of  sweetened  lemon  juice  in  a  ImUle 
most  railway  stations,  and  for  a  kw 
ad   almost  everywhere.     Such  a  imir-  'J 
^es,  can  be  made  with  fewer  iiuor.vv  # 
■red  in  traveling  in  a  Pullman,  at  tht  ^ 
3  to  ButTalo. 

mintment   was  reserved   for  us  in  iht 
)Lt\veen  the  .south  Italian  port  ot  Hrin- 
rts  for  Athens  i.  The  best  of  these  is  the 
assured  that  our  vessel,  the  HakbH>j. 
ivas  everything   that  could  be  ilesired 
iiing  two  or  niore    beds— not    bnlh- 
ie.se   was    unusually   good,   and   a>  ;l;e 
ill    the    time   we   could    not  complain  f| 
were    excellent.       Hefore    reachins  the 
he  first  evidence  of  the  war.     Tiieboal 
u'gular    course   to   pick    up   soinc  titty 
s    from   tlK- Turkish  seaport  of  J anina.  j 
urks  established  a  military  depot  here 
ir  tor  the  use  of  the  army  operatiii;,'  or. 
•e.     The    Greek    tleel  made  short  work 
good  opportunity  of  seeing  wh at  havcc 
1  small    town.     We  saw  warehouses  is 
me  of    them  were  merely    pierttd  here] 
lially  burned  while  others  were  .simply 
ding  had  two  walls  and  the  rooi  inposi-| 

and    stairca.ses  still  in  place.     In  con- 
anies  of  Turkish  soldiers  occnpial  ontj 
which   the  red  crescent  wai veil,  and  in| 
coursed  what  probably  passes  :n  Kpirusj 
li^htful  at  all   seasons  of  the  vcur,  ad| 
■hy   the    Kmpress  of  Austria  chosctaej 


jsl.iiiil  f)r  tlie  miguificent  p.ilace  she  built  there  a  few  years  ago  at 
tu I'll  enormous  expense.  We  saw  evidences,  even  during  our  short 
stay,  of  the  misdirected  philanthrophy  that  induced  Mr.  Gladstone  to 
piesent  this  and  the  other  members  of  the  Ionian  group  of  islands  to 
the  newly  formed  Cireek  monarchy.  'IMiis  action  on  the  part  of  the 
British  Government  was  (|uite  in  accord  with  the  wishes  of  the  British 
people  and  was  done  at  the  request  of  the  iidiabitants  themselves,  but 
|t  is  only  another  illustration  of  the  truth  that  a  strong  and  well 
lirected  foreign  rule  is  preferable,  so  far  as  material  results  are  con- 
teriied,  to  home  government  of  the  indifferent  sort  that  the  Greeks  have 
exhibited.  With  characteristic  energy  the  Hritish  built  roads,  e.stab- 
|islied  schools,  encouraged  agriculture  and  manufacturers  of  all  kinds 
mil  generally  stimulated  the  indolent  Greek  to  enterprises  of  various 
cinds.  Incidentially,  of  course,  they  regulated  his  taxes  and  saw  to 
It  tiiat  he  l)ought  as  many  British  goods  as  possible.  Hut  no  oriental 
likes  to  be  incited  to  action  that  includes  a  regular  i)rogram  of  con- 
linued  work-  even  if  it  be  in  his  own  interest-  and  one  may  very 
I'ell  (lue.stion  whether  the  lonians  do  no  still  ])refer  their  decaying 
liidnstries  and  crumbling  country  to  the  sj)ick-and  span  prosperity  of 
5ritish  rule. 

.\t  Patras  we  first  encountertd  the  luscious,  little,  purple  grape 
finch,  when  dried,  constitutes  the  "currant"  of  commerce.  We  saw 
^undreils  of  acres  of  this  delicious  frtiit  and  made  many  enquiries 
roin  our  genial  consul  in  Patras,  Mr.  Jentungs,  and  others  regarding 
The  merchants  are  awaiting,  with  nuich  anxiety,  the  outcome  of 
lie  tariff  discussion,  since  a  protective  duty  on  currants  means  much, 
lot  only  to  them  but  to  all  Greece.  T  le  cultivation  and  preparation 
If  tile  eurrant-grape  for  the  market  furnish  a  livelihood  to  a  large 
ircentage  of  the  population  both  of  the  island  and  mainland  about 
|atras,  and  the  exclusion  of  the  millions  of  pounds  of  dried  currants 
nuially  consumed  by  us  would  be  a  serious  blow  to  them. 

\'ery  little  is  said  about  the  comfort  and  still  less  about  the  pic- 
Jres(|ue  beauty  of  the  railway  journey  from  Patras  to  Athens.  After 
!)nsiderable  entjuiry  we  concluded  that  the  canal  acro.ss  the  isthmus  of 
[crinth  is  not  as  well  patronized  as  one  would  have  expected.  I'rora 
[ephallonia,  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  Corinth,  to  the 
uiietiiate  Athenian  .seajiort  of  Piraeus  is  ;,66  miles  round  the  Pelo- 
bnesus,  while  the  direct  route  through  the  gulf  and  canal  is  only 
M  miles,  and  yet  neither  our  vessel  nor  those  of  the  Italian  or 
K'lU'h  lines  took  advantage  of  the  shorter  route.  We  understood 
lal  the  intricacies  of  the  latter  journey  as  well   as  the  tolls  imposed 

3 


wm 


tmm 


:.* 


Upon  vlsmIs  ii.i.s.siiij4  thr()ii>;lj  ili 


til 


«-•  «aiii  III  nuIcaKf.     Wliatcvt-r  ha  ii 


V  ciii.il    more  til  111   rum 


s  comiiKMcial  status 


nu  more  impoMi,^;  view  than  that  Kaii.od   l,v  the  travelet 
the  canal  l.y  a  I.ri.l^e  iiearlv  -.v^  feet  above  the  water  W-h 
him  lies  the  w.iterway.  t,[:    miles  1 
nit   throuuli  solid   rock,  and   the   bird 


iniiT.  loo  feet  widt 


or 


striking.     Th 


s  eye  view  so  oht; 


e  iM 


iial  iseiitirely  without  locks,  as  the  1 


e  .uiilf. 


Th 


HI) 

e  \' 


ill  the  Aexeaii  sea  is  the  same  as  tint  of  th 
Ki"'<  the  canal   was  really  heKun  by  Nero  aiKThas,  at   int 

a  tew  years  a)^( 


ured  by  centuries,  proceede  i  until  fiiiislied 


The  rail wav  th 


passes  for  iniIe-<  a  Ion 


en  skirts  the  northern  shore  of  the  S, 


iroi 


stran.ije  that  s)  little  is  pllbli^hell 


K  rooky  t-iittin-s  that  closely  abut  on  t 


sea  and  nionntain  obtained    aloiii;    thi-  tl 


rej^ardinj;  the  1111^^11  ifu 


far 


le  Riviera  of  ( 


urpass  their  Italian  counterparts  iK.t  only  because  of 


and  extent  of  iiiont  lain,  | 


lin    and   sea  iiichided  in  ihe  p 


because  the  Greek  line  runs  many  liuiidreils  of  feet  hinh 


French  railway  or  th 
places  the  roadbed   i 


whose  bases  arc  washed  bv   the  watc 


e  carriage  road  from  Cannes  to  C.eiio; 
s  cartied  (juite  to  the  edj^e  of  jJcrpciK 


rs  of  the  Aegean  se: 


We  found  Athens  in  a  state  of   "  sulk; 


Th 


e  liillitai 


commonly  plays  in  the   Place  de  la  Constiimion  had    cea 
eveninjj  concerts,  and  there  was  an 
vadiuK    evervthini-.      Tl 


se 


le    curious 


air   of  depressed   expi 
American    naturallv 


/ntdtas  rrs  as  sin>;i  as  he  enter 


interesting;,  and  we    intervieweil 


s  a  Country  ih  it   i-  politically 


who  coti'd    or  would  speak 
Italian 


evirybody  on   the  subject 


not  alwavs  with  the  >ai 


ab  )ut   it   in  ImciicIi,  luiyjlish, 


tile  warlike  sentiment  h  id 


lie  results.     .U  fir  as  couli 


•en  universal   and    sincere,  but 


rations  f  (r  the  s'riiKM.;ie  were  wolul 


met  a  number  ol  Red  Cross  1 


I\'  inidecpt  itt 


moil'. 


iiirses  on  their  wa\  to  IvuLilaii 


lile  extoliiiiK'  I'le  btavcrv  of  the  C 


ot   the  service 


reeks,  admitted  that 


Turk^ 


were  tiemorali/ed  aher    the    first  eiij^aj^eiiiei 


»1    tr.iiisportatioii  faiilities  there  were  none,  a  id  t 


sariat  depailnieiit    ixisted  ii 


1    name   onI\ 


Witl 


1  a  Ddorlv 


on 


laud,  partially   supplied   and   iir.perkctly    disciplined,  \ 


•.vno 


l^ll 


se  operations  were  confined  by  the  Powers  to  Turk 
cent  to  Creek  territory,  it  is  small  wonder  that  so  little  iiiiii 
made  upon  a  numerically  superior  foice  of  the  eiiemv  ; 
modern   ntles  and    diili.-d    and    led    lar^elv  l)s   (iermaii,  K 


luiKlish   ollicer>,      It 


?eni>  a  pity  tli.it  the   (iieeks  did   not 


Ihf    CiUl.ll     IllDrc    th  Ml    cullipc'llsi!,,  ; 

I  l»i;  its  (.omiiK'trial  .status  tlun  ,  „!  . 
latKaiiied   \>y  the-  traveler  as  lu  ,  ,„-. 

0  fec-t  al)ovc  llic  water  Ivlow.  I;, m 
Ifs  loiiK.  loo  feet  wide,  oiie-llliid  ,,; 
le  bird's  eye  view  so  oNtaiiied  is  u 

Without  locks,  as  the  height  of  « r 
s  that   of  the  Kitlf.     The  work  ..i   :, 

II  liy  Nero  and  has,  at   interv.d-  uw  ■ 
itil  finished  a  tew  years  aj;o 

northern  shore  ol  theSaronic  Giih  .r 
tin,i;s  that  closely  abut  on  the  sea.  I; 
ul  rei^ardiug  the  ni  iKnifieent  vi^us. 
n^  thi-  the  Riviera  of  Creeo.'.  Ti: 
•rparts  not  only  because  of  the  va::  ■ 
and  sea  include<l  in  the  i»anoiania  i .: 
any  hundreds  of  teet  higher  tliaii  ;! 
road  from  Cannes  to  C.enoa  In  ii:,; 
uite  to  tlie  fd-e  of  perpcndicnl.ii  ,'.::- 

waters  of  the  AcKcaii  .sea. 
-■  of    "  sulks."'     The  military  batul  tli;^: 

hi  Constitution  had  ceased  to.!;i\\i- 
'  an  air  of  depressed  e\pectanc\  ]ir 
ions    American     naturally  pluni^t>  . 

1  counti\-  ihit   i--  politic, illv  orsdc;,:. 
everyliody  on   the  subject  of  tliv  \\x 

)nt  it  in  French,  Ivnglish,  C.cniia;!  ^ 
ne  results.  As  t'jr  as  could  be  k.iiv.v. 
universal  and  sincere,  but  thv  p:ua 
fully  in.ide(ju.ite.  .\u\  m-  ol.ii^is  ■.« 
es  on  their  \v.i\  to  I{ii,i;land.  aii'i  \h\ 
le  Oreeks,  admitted  that  all  i.r;uiclit> 
atier  the  first  eni;a;4eiiKii[  with  tlu 
ties  there  were  none,  a  ul  the  inuniav- 
iiK-  onI\.  With  a  poorly  amif  1  lorce 
iir,i)erlcclly  (li^cipllne(f  with  a  tkft 
!)S'  the  Powers  to  Turkish  ]hirt.-,  iidja- 
1!  wonder  that  so  little  impiC'-i'Mi  \\-.\< 
Mr  toice  of  the  enem\-  ainn'l  w.'.h 
led  lar.nely  by  ()erman,  Rii---iaii  and 
y  th.it  the  (ireeksdid   not   w  '..i  ihcir 


.  .'tunity  (as  the  Huluarian^   have  d«  iiej  !iiid  ac(iui)e  territory  es  it 

I,  away  from  llie  slowly  crumbling;  empire  of  the  Turk      One  can- 

lielp  feeliiiK  •>  s<'fl  <•'  P'^V  ''"■  ^''*^'  ""»•*■■'"  drtek.      lie  t  xhiltils,  in 

native  country  at  least,  many  (lualities   that   are   admirable.     We 

verv   few    l)eKKi>f^    in    Cireece.  and    there  is  certainly  less  of  the 

.  .tionable    ilirt    and    national    abasement    that    one  meets  with  in 

There    is    an  air   of  dignity,  self  respect,    and    independence 

.  i    .1    e'lrrespondini,'    al)sonce    of  tren/ied   Kesticulatnm)    about  the 

..pie  that  IS  refreshiiiK  after  a  visit  to    Italy.     On    the    other    hand 

,r;-  A//>r  nu't hods  seem    to    prevail    everywhere.      Iminovidence  is 

!i  ni'.re  marked  than  it  is  in  Italy. 

We  visited   seveial    Atherian   schools,  one  in  particular  founded 

llu-   gueeii    ard  c'.evotid    to    leaching   girls  various  skilUd   (a'CU- 

i,.n-      Tiiev  made   very  arti.stic  embroidery,  rugs,  silks,  lace,  etc., 

;  iiave  more  orders  on  haiul   than  lluy  can  fill. 

.Some  of  us  attended  for  the  first  time  a  C.reek  funeral,  and. 
iiouuh  we  subsciiucntly  saw  seveial  others,  we  couhl  not  become 
niuiled  to  the  idea  ol  haviiiK  the  corpse  txposed  in  its  burial 
,'hes  as  it  wasborne  alon^  the  public  streets  -the  coflin  lid  beiii^^ 
rried  in  advance  by  some  ot  the  profession.il  mourners.  The  cere- 
nr.ialin  the  church  was  very  impressive  with  the  choir  and  half  a 
.11  priests,  j;<>tKt-""sly  robed,  inloniiii;  tlie  service. 

Ill  .\thens  we  first  encountered   the  striiiKS  <>f  wooden  beads  car- 

,1  ;  hielly  l)y  the  men  of  all  clas.ses.    These  are  not  rosaries  and  have 

;liui-  to  do  with.  reli>;ious observances,  but  simply  furnish  mechanical 

npi'lion  for  the  hands  while  .sittiuK'  in  a  cafe,  t.alkiuK,  ridin-  in  the 

■,,  t  cais,  etc.      Instead  of  working  off  surplnss   eiurgy  by  twisting 

umst.iche,  rocking  in  a  chair  or  chewing 


u  ilchchain,  pulling  at  the  n 
Mini,  as  we  do,  the  ni;ile  C.reek  pul 


ait  his  string  of  beads  ami  play: 


k\\\\\  them! 


One  of  lis  has  l)<ei   iiiv..stig.itiiig   the  penitentiaries  a 


li;il 


die  only  occui)atii)n    a 


llowed    hire  to  he  the  twiilmg  cf  these 


11(1 
all 


;  A.u 


ling  beads.     How  muc 


h  better  off  aie  they  than  the  unfortunate 


M  IsOl 


lers  in  some  of  our  State    institutions  w 


,-ho  are  not  allowed  even 


i.it  coii'iol.ilion . 


W 


Wl 


re   all    solemnly   wa 


rued,  olTicially    and    otherwise,  not    to 


an 


pt    to  tiitir  Greece  without  a   jhdi 


)ei  iv 


■/.<<(/  passport,  and  yet 


ki.)l)(Hlv  asked  us  lor  ours. 


Not  onlv  that  l)ut   we  could  not  discover, 


liliyeiil   eninuiv,    that   any 


l)od> 


nail 


•ver   been    a."- 


lor 


.\^ 


we 


embarked    for   Smyrna    on 


/. 


I    Syrnr  o 


f  the   .Urssai:t-rirs 


'■.nitinifs,  we  passed  the  anchorage 


>f  the    lleet   maintained    in  the 


leus  bv  the  Powers- 


five  ugly  looking  monsters  who  amuse  them- 


f  . 


"m^^m'i' 


.selves  at  tiinlit  by  playiiiK  tluir  search  lights  ovtr  tlie  cilv,  I 
away,  as  a  Rcntlf  reiiiiiidfr  to  tliv  popiilace  that  where  tl 
imu'h  lijiht  there  is  also  a  lH)Uiitiliil   supply  of  fitf. 

AItlu)UKl»  tlie  Messaneries  sti-ainers  jilyiii;;  in  tlie  I.evai 
the  Hosphoius  are  the  older  ships  of  the  aMiipany  iiid  are 
to  those  of  the  Attstriau  Mt)yds  i  whose  vessels  we  would 
the  best  means  of  reaching  Constantinople),  the  perfect  wi 
encountered  assisted  us  greatly  in  resisting  the  fatigues  of 
ney.  We  broke  ihc  journey  at  vSniyrna  and  were  delight* 
our  tlaj;  living  from  the  luifutofl  in  the  harbor.  Allhou^li  i 
little  representative  of  the  white  squadron  did  tiot  force  the  i 
the  Dardanelles  durini;  the  Anneiiian  iinpleasantness  her  otVi 
been  abk-  to  improve  their  mit ds  and  learn  much  about 
^^raphy  of  I'',Ry'>t,  Syria  and  Asia  Minor  while  ofT  on  leav».-( 
in  tluse  inteiestinj;  parts.  Our  war  vessel  left  Smyrna  about 
time  we  did  for  one  of  the  islands  of  the  dreek  archipdani 
interchanj;e  of  pleasant  visits.  Smyrna  is  propabjy  the 
l)ustlin)»  city  in  the  whole  Ottoman  Ivnpire  It  has  abou 
inhabitants  and  bears  all  tlu'  outward  appearances  of  a  prosp 
well-to  do  town.  As  far  as  we  could  learn  this  prosp 
decidedly  nouTurkish.  Those  of  us  who  mailed  letters  h 
variety  of  i)ost  offices  to  chose  from,  as  every  European  iiat 
size  maintains  a  service  of  its  own  This  is  the  rule  in  all 
Tiirkish  towns,  and,  by  a  str.in^;e  anomaly  while  the  internal 
ta^e  elsewhere  is  the  ecpiivahiil  of  live  Cents,  one  sends  a  kite 
ica  or  Creat  Britain  for  lour  cents.  We  visited  the  native  pos 
found  a  very  courteous  official  who  spoke  I'rench  and  ^'ave 
information  we  re(iuired,  except  that  he  could  not  explain 
l)arative  cheapness  of  international  p('si,ij;e.  b'ven  in  Si 
uncalled  for  letters  are  exposed  in  a  j;!ass  case  at  the  front  d 
post  olVice  so  thai  he  who  runs  may  read  his  name  on  them' 

Another  warning,  that  led  to  certain  of  our  \r.\x\.\  buy 
lated  hats  for  use  in  Constantinople,  was  (piite  uncalled  for. 
the  Turkish  ca  ital  is  the  most  delightful  summer  resort 
could  wish  for.  A  cool,  refreshing  bree/e  bl«)ws  all  day  1 
the  Hlack  Sea.  and  the  niyhts  are  olten  cold  in  summei. 
every  two  or  three  days,  atid  the  c  ity  i^  full  of  trees.  Ther 
as  mncli  need  for  a  cork  hehnet  here  in  August  as  there  wo 
one  in  Mackinaw  or  Atlantic  City. 

Owii  K  to  this  alarm  .ibotit  the  heat  of  the  suminer  .sea.si 
recent  war,  we  are  almo-^t  the  only  Aiiiericiii  tourists  in  tin 
we  have  made  it,  iiicludiiiK  the  lioteN  and   tli  ir  attend.uit 


^^,1 


;arcli  liK'lits  ovii  the  citv,  fivi  m'm 
V  pojmlarf  that  where  then  is  m, 
il   .siii>i)Iv  of  /ire. 

amers  plyiii;,'  in  the  Levant  iind  on 
>s  of  the  company  .iiul  are  noi  ii|u;il 
whose  vessels  we  \>ould  advise  .^ 
taiitinople),  the  perfect  weal lier  we 
II  resistiiiy;  the  fatigues  of  tlie  jour 
Sinynia  and  were  delijjhted  to  fiml 
in  the  liarhor.  Although  this  smart  l|^ 
xpiadrof.  did  not  force  the  pass.ij^eoi 
tuan  iinpleasantness  heroflkeis  have 
Is  and    learn  much    about   the  j^eo- 

Minor  while  off  on  leave-olal)sciii.c 
ar  vessel  left  Smyrna  about  the  sanH- 
s  of  the  (ireek  arcliipelaj;o  a  Iit  an 
Sniyrna  is  proj)al>jy  the  only  iivf 
an  Mmpire  It  has  about  300,00.1 
rard  ai)i)earaiices  of  a  iirosperons  and 
e  could  learn  this  prosperity  wa- 
if us  who  mailed  letters  here  had 
'in,  as  every  I<)uropean  nation  oi  .iii\ 
1  This  is  the  rule  in  all  the  lar^e 
inomaly   while  the  international  ]w<- 

five  cents,  one  >ends  a  letter  to  AiiKi- 
.  We  visited  the  native  po.stofTict.'  aiu! 
o  spoke  I'rench  and  j;ave  us  .ill  iIk 
that  he  could  not  explain  tlu  rom 
iial    post.ijie,      h'veii    in    Smyrna  the 

a  n'as.s  case  at  the  front  door  oi  the 
ly  read  his  name  on  them! 
)  certain  ot  our  ji.irty  bu\  iiii;  veii;: 
lie,  was  (piile  uncalled  for.  Inii-ci! 
ilelii;htful  suininer  resort  that  nn- 
ii>;  bree/e  bl(»ws  all  day  loiiK  ii"'"''' 
•  often  cold  in  summei.  Ram  Mil- 
city  is  full  of  trees.  There  is  ihoiit 
eie  in  August  as  there  wouM  I'c  !i'; 
/ . 

le  heat  of  the  summer  season  aii'l  tlu 
ly  American  tourists  in  the  city  aiul 
otels  and   th  ir  attendant    satflliti- 


Ulniirown.  We  have  the  pick  of  the  foreign  accommodation  of  all 
«itls  and  are  eujoyiuK  ourselves  imnien.sely.  Somebody  has  dis- 
kovered  tint  the  butter  is  made  from  sheep's  milk,  but  even  that  does 

|(il  disturb  us. 

It  is  no  sn.'dl  matter  for  us  Americans  that  we  have  come  at  the 
beKuminK  of  the   fruit    .season,  and  it    has    helped   greatly  when  eon- 
iiited  by  the  olive  oil  mes.ses  in  which  the  oriental    delights      Fresh 
Igs.  pears,  nectarines,  all  sorts  of  grapes,   melons,   tomatoes,    plums, 
keulies,  etc.,  aie   here   in  abundance.     On    the  street  maize  is  sold, 
lot,     U)asted      and     boiled,     but     it    is,     we     have     discovered,    our 
jniiimnii  field  variety,  and  we  have  looked  in  vain  for  the  sweet  corn 
our  native  land.     The  city  has  greatly  improved    since  the  days  of 
I.uk  Tv.ain"s  "Innocents   Abroad  "  (the   importation  of  which    into 
["lukey  is  expressly  rori)idden),  but  most  of  the  .scenes   descended  in 
lat  inimitable  guide  book  are  still  true  to  life.     We  have   run  acro.ss 
nmiil)er  of  intere^ting  things,  however,  that  he  does  not  speak  of. 
fhc   fire  departmt  nt,  for  instance,  exhibits   some  of  those  niy.steries 
):ivcr  impenetrable  to  the  Anglo-Saxon,  that  one  constantly  enconn- 
ki'  1!    in  this  eastern  country      There  are  in  the  city  halt  a  dozen   sta- 
ll* n-   each  manned  by  some  twenty  or  thirty  men  and  provided  with  a 
wii  ill    liand    engine   of  the  pattern   of  1852  and  two  or  three  vehicles 
fill!  with  ladtlers  from  eight  to  twelve  feet  long.     As   the  streets  are 
gtii'  rally  mere  passages  or  lanes  too  narrow  for  horses,  the  eng  lies  are 
dr.i;Ked  or  carried  by  the  firemen        Several  high   towers  have  been 
bui  t   ill  various  (piarlers  of  the  city,  and    from   these  watchmen  look 
Oil!  1  I  ((iiitlagrations.     As  .soon  as  a  fire   is  discovered   the   heal  bri- 
gade <l(i(..s  not  at  once  ri.sh  to  the  rescue.     That  would  be  "  aping  the 
inliMdog."      Permission   must   firs:  be  given,  after  due  appliciation, 
frdii  tlu'  Imperial  palate  to  extinguish  the  firel     I'litil   (|uite  rec  ntly 
thi-   v.is  obtained   by  special   messenger,  but  it  so  happened,  not   Imig 
«''<    that  a  fire  started  near  the  .Sultan's  residence,  and  there  was  for 
ftt;:;;v  ixtieme  danger  of  its  extending  to  the  palace  itself  before  the 
nei;rst   brigade  arrived.     vSince  then   his  majesty  has  graciously  per- 
rait'id  1  telegraph  line  to  be  erected  by  means  of  which   more  direct 
OOiiiinuiiicatiun  can    be  obtained.      Last    night   we  saw  the    force  pro- 
CWdiiiL!    that  is  the  only  word  that  will  adequately  describe  the  per- 
Wiiiiim.)  to  a  fire  whicli  was  extingnisheil   after  twenty  houses  had 
bfeii  destroyed. 

riiL'  supply  ()l  water  to  the  city,  it  iiinst  be  acknowledged,  is 
WK'illtnt,  and  various  sultans  have  done  got)d  work  in  erecting  acque- 
^c  i:id  extending  the  pipe  service  to  all  parts  of  the  town.  Doubt- 
Wlfi  Uk  command  of  the  Koran,  to  pray  five  times  d.iily  and  to  bathe 


,<i4t©»l 


>Mx 


the  fea  nnd  hands  h-.foro  praycMS    l,as  IkhI  nu.rh  to  .1..  w>lh 
;;:;nK.nt    ..  Uu-   r.unK.rons    fountains  one   SC.S  not  only  ,n  . 

with  the  n,oM,nesluU  about  the  city  genera    v.  ^ 

Our  tv.tv  has  taken   nu.ny   tm.s  up  the   Hosphorus   . 

...V  we  u  ere  ahle  to  see  son^ethin,  of  the  ^orlifioatu.nsior    he 

th.t  sMaU  an.l  the  Daraanelle.       We  are   nnpresse.    u  Uh  tl 

;jea.ly.eU.naeac.v>oth;.ysea.unnan.th..^ 

11         ,    ,...rv  well   eKist       NOhodv.    howevei,    can    te    i 
1         .        th-.t    ihev    have   ^.^owu  ru^t>    and   k^'I^  " 

IWal.lv  ,1  .IH  T..Tk« Ciena,,  war   ha,l  Iku,  l.mKli. 

„„,    ,.,Us  ,„»U.  l.v  .„...s  fin.,  a.  ....  .h.r,y  .>    f    •     A, 

.,in..:  .he  l,„il.l,„s  ,ni,.r  ...  .1..  ...assacr.  o.    a,.      .. 

U..,in.wUl,,..o...Mln,,KS  .ha.,. ■..■."-'. 

;;;:v:;;;,;;;'o.r:::u:::;;;='.:::::;.:^.:a.,u 

"""          -^r   h     k    Unuofsix  th..us:u,a   of  their   hun, 

""'   ''"";   :\       e.u         ;-uter.  of  Stan,lu,ul    and    l>era 

tnots  ni    the  Ainu  aian     i  ,„  iss  ,.re  an.l  are  lore 
.,OUO,,  ...... a,,vcv.w,...»s-^^^^ 

eneniu>  who  are    i.itanu\ 

uUelleetually.  ^  ,       ^  .\lhen.  an.l  Co 

Tiie  nnhtarv  ho^pnal>  M  an.l  a. 

^;:^:;,.j:;:.:  ..........-:'::  ■-:;::,:;::,;■:-. 

lashHKU.i  Creek  title  ^^^^^        .^    .„, 

Ou.    new    ambassador,    l>r.  An.^cll, 


lias  had  imirh  to  d"  with  '!i't^' 
ains  one   sees  not  only  in  idi.iKcli.in 
■itv  ge'icrally. 

nips  lip  the   Hosphorns,  and  on  on: 
^  of  tlie  forlifK-atioiis  tor  the  d.  IciiaM,! 
\Vr  are   itupiesscd  witli  the  Uct  liial 
Wy  sea  and  hind,  than  Conslaiiliiiop'.t 
,hodv,    however,    can    he    tuuiul  wb 
iikisli    lleet.     The  several  vrsscls  that 
uietK   lor  ;-o  many  years  at  llu-ir  vari- 
.  grown  ru^ty   and   ^ray  troin  d  mk. 
■  of  the  pontoon  bridges  that  M'-''>  "■■^- jj 
rdtorn   awav    from    its   moniings  and  ^ 
,l,,,i„s.      The  gnid..- expl.iined  lliat -m 
leavorini;    to  pa.s  throngh  du  pr^:.: 
ahleandoiashod  into  the  bnd-- i'.^  • 
war   had  been  lougbl  at  sea  the  n/^> 

ank  and  were  shown  the  bullet  ImV 
1  at  the  thirty  or  forty  Arnuinans  vvl 
massacre  of  la>t  year  It  i-^  'i'lr^ 
hat  one  stndie.  in  vain  luic  to  len. 
,.ud  rcsnll  of  that  mad  eseaiKulc  w: 
,..,  through  the  ace  dentalexploMoii 

,a  smuggled  into  the  bank.    Alter  Uk 
the  revolutionists'  passage  to  Marseille. 

ix   thousand   of  their   hnmbhr  onn'-- 

.r<    of  Stamluad    ami    I'era       W  -    1;'''* 
„■  the  massacre  and  are  torcedl..l.vn^c 

vnlavcd  into  th.--  hands  ol    tlu-.v  an  .:  • 
,  „nuh    lor    them    both    phys.cally  .::■ 

,^„,,  ,^|,ont  Atheu,  andConstarUn.;p:. 
.,rs   on    both    sde.   prove    cond«^>^c. 

Turk^lhan  Ore  ks  were  kUUd  n  U 
te.l  bv  the  larger,  heavier  '"'la-'-j. 
„H,re'>erion,  than  those  mad.  .«^  - 
.H  o,  the  Tnrki.h  nfle.  On  t!:e  ■•.- 
idv,  has  a  greater  an.l  more  aou..^ 
,..1    superior   Xv7//».C   powers  than  U.- 


)r.  An:4ell,has    not   >et    arrive. 


ml  t:;« 


[pe^ieiary  of  Legation,  Mr.  J.  \V.  Riddle,  has  been  kindness  itself.  He 
Bias  among  other  things,  obtained  permission  for  us  to  attend  the 
\si-/>iii!fik  ox  Sultan's  proce.ssion  to  the  Mosque  .so  that  we  may  see 
Ins  Majestv  face  to  face  as  he  i)r.  ceeds  to  prayers. 

'I'his  takes  place  every  Friday  afternoon,  and  is  equivalent  to  a 
jiesentation  at  court.     C.nests  are  introduced  into  the  palace  rooms 
iverlooking  the  mosque  entrance  by  their  Ambassador  or  Consul  and 
iro  expected  to  appear  in   reception  drc'-s.     The  use  of  opera  glasses, 
:odacks  or  a  sketch  book  is  strictly  forbidden,      h'or  hours  before  the 
:eremony  begins   ever>    approach  to  the  palace  or   its  mos<iue  is  sur 
rounded  by  troop?      The  household  guard  lines  both  side  of  the  road 
leading    from    die  palace  to  the  mosque  eiitranee  it.self.     (Gorgeously 
iressed  military  ollicersand  court  ofTicials  appear  as  the  time  for  the  Sub 
tan's  approach  is  at  hand,  then  the  young  princes,  boys  from  seven  to 
fourteen,  in  brilliant  uniforms  arrive  amid  much  presenting  of  arms  and 
';bke  places  in   the  ranks  of  the  .soldiery.     Two  carriages  filled  with 
reiled  women  drive  up.    Theoflicers  of  rank  form  a  long  line  from  the 
rates  of  the  mosque  to  the   private  entrance.      In  a   moment  there  is 
[eeii  a  brilliant  cavalcade  escorting  a  magnificent  state  carriage  in. 
■hkh  are  seated  the  Sultan  and  Osinan   Gha/.i,  the  hero  of  rit;vna 
;iie  ;////<■--/«  is  heard  from   the  neighboring  minarets  as  the  carriage 
Jr.iws  np  at  the  mostine  entrance,  the  long  line  of  courtiers  bow  to  the 
ground  and  the  Sultan,  placing  his  finger-tips  on  his  forehead,  lips  and 
heart  (  tlie  Moslem  salute)  returns  the  obeisance.     At  this  moment  we 
ipw  a  poorly  dressed  man  rush  through  the  crowd  of  soldiers  into  the 
"  lidst  of  the  brilliant  thnmg  and  attempt  to  throw  a  paper— a  petition 
into  the  imperial  carriage.      He  was,  however,  seized  by  the  oilieials 
id  his  poor  prayer  will  have  to  be  made  some  other  time— and  some 
;her  where.     There  can  b-  no  doubt  of  the  deep  reverence   that  the 
rerage    Mahommedan   exhil)its    for  his    religicms    institutions.     His 
iperstition  and    fanaticism    are  the    things  above  all  other  that  must 
considered  m  stu<lving  Ottoman  affairs.     These  are  more  important 
him  than  mr.ters  of  commercial  or  intern  itional  law,  ol    which  he 
uk-rstands   little    and   cares    less.      He    is   instinctively    a    religious 
W.i     ,  a    and  hates    the    sh-.p  keeping  Oieeks,  Arineni.ins,   Jews  and 

Otl:      lureigiiers.  ,  ...       ,  ,  , 

lus.mie  paits  of  the  enipiie  the  death  penalty  is  .still  paid  by 
a  :.itation,  and  in  Smvrna  the  heads  of  criminals  are  often  exposed 
\[.u:  I  he  piison  walls.      After   all    this  lorm  of  punishment  is  swift 

an=     ■  .inle.ss,  and  surely  if  capital  punishment  has  any  deterrent  etlect 

th;       Ifecr   should   be   increased   by  a  public   exhibition    of  the   niale- 

fac    :  s  liead--at  least  so  says  the  Turk. 

S) 


s  H 


..  ;,w*^-^>*-*i^»^"  -■ 


"'■^^S^^Smm^mmm'^^'^''^  ■ 


t  1 


The  public  letttr  writer,  in  a  country  whose  pub 
instruction  is  confined  to  occasional  lessons  given  in  the  mo 
man  of  considerable  importance  and  often  conducts  hisbnsii 
open  air  convenient  to  his  clientele.  We  saw  one  (piarter  < 
where  four  of  these  persons  were  actively  engaged  in  the 
their  honorable  calling. 

Not  only  is  the  Ottoman  silver  coinage  a  debased  one 
tio:i  of  it  consists  of  copper  coins  silver  plated.  Still,  so  sc 
paratively,  are  coins  of  a  the  small  denominations  that  the 
premium,  as  compared  with  money  of  a  larger  value,  and  t 
the  fumy  state  of  aflairs  that  confronts  the  visiator— he  if 
his  full  change,  if  making  a  purchise,  unless  it  happens  t 
of  large  dimensions' 

Not  on'y  must  the  traveler  have  his  passport  vis, 
Turkey,  Rouniania  and  Russia,  Init  he  must,  after  crossing 
have  it  vised  to  leave  these  countries.  Tlie  authoritie: 
intend  not  only  that  no  objectional  party  shall  enter  th 
precincts  but  that  nobody  shall  leave  without  their  consent 
to  the  independent  American  who  imagines  that  li 
without  these  formalities  will  be  lightly  dealt  with.  \\ 
several  such   wlio  were   made  to  feel   the  strong   arm  of 

oppressor. 

A   break    in    a    tunnel    on  the  direct  route   to    Belgrf 

„s  to  travel  to  lUida-Pesth  via  the  Black  Sea  ami  Hucharcs 

on  all  sides  of  the  great  strides  made  in  late  years  by  the  1 

since  they  .'^eveied  their  connection  with    the  Turkish  Ivn-,] 

were  glad  to  visit  their  prosi)erous  and  well  kept  city  capi 

same  time  we   left    Constantinople  with    regret,    because 

oriental  dirt;  its-' yallow'   dogs  and  its  mediaeval    nieth 

far   the  most  pictures. piely  situate<l  and  most  imposing  cii 

his  yet  seen.     The  views  from  its   seven    hills,  or  Irom  ai 

Ihe    Bosphorus  are   not  only   lx.-autiful   beyond   descnpti. 

change  every  hour  of  the  .lay.      Naples  presents  a  magn 

front    but  the    citv  of  Ci>nstantine  the    Great  is  as  much 

i„  a  dozen  wavs   than   the    Neapolitan  capital   as   the    Nn 

is  grander  than  tlie  ravines  about  our  suburb  ot  Olencoe. 


ti  a  country  whose  public  scliod, 
lal  lessons  given  in  the  mos(HKs,  is , 
itul  often  conducts  his  business-  in  ',!: 
rlf.  We  saw  one  ([uarter  of  tin-  r  ■■ 
e  actively  engaged  in  the  puriuii 

Iver  coinage  a  debased  one  Iml  a  por 
silver  plated.  Still,  so  scarce,  com- 
nail  denominations  that  they  arc  at  a 
ley  of  a  larger  value,  and  thus  result* 
onfronts  the  visiator— he  is  not  giver, 
■chise,  unless  it   happens  to  l)c  a  com 

er  have  his  passport  vised  to  tnttr 
but  he  must,  after  crossing  the  Imnler 
•ountries.  The  authorities  eviduiitly 
ional  party  shall  enter  the  hallowed 
leave  without  their  consent.  Woe  k 
1  who  imagines  that  his  passport 
be  lightly  dealt  with.  We  htard  of 
to  feel   the  .strong   arm  of  the  foreign  | 

the  direct  route  to   Belgrade    ohlis;ed 
he  Black  Sea  and  Bucharest.     We  hear 
made  in  late  years  by  the  Roumanians 
tion  with   the  Turkish  Ivn-pire,  ami 've 
ous  and  well  kept  city  capital.     W  the 
t)l)le  with    regret,    because   despite  it> 
sand  its  mediaeval    methods  it  is'v 
ate.l  and  most  imposing  city  ativ  ot  u> 
its   seven    hills,  or  from  any  poriiou  o; 
)eautiful  beyond   description  but  they 
Naples  presents  a  magniticenl  water 
:ine  the    Great  is  as  nuich  more  lovely 
ipclitan  capital   as  the    Nali.mal   Park 
)ul  our  sulnirb  of  Cilencoe. 


10 


!? 


